Searching for green in a universe of blue

It's noon in Ahmedabad. I'm standing at the concourse that brings fans up from Gate No. 1 to enter the vast expanse that is the world's biggest cricket stadium, for India versus Pakistan.

Calling what I'm seeing a 'sea' of blue feels like an understatement. This is an ocean of blue jerseys flowing into the stands to witness chapter eight of the most big-ticket (and most lopsided) rivalry there is.

An hour later, I finally spot something not-blue: the now-familiar sight of Bashir Chacha - possibly the only Pakistani fan in Ahmedabad? - draped in his combined Pakistan and India colours. He greets me warmly before being engulfed by Indian fans who want a picture of him.

Will we see any others in green?

Minutes after the toss, my phone beeps. I've been sent a photo of two other Pakistani fans in the stands from my office, and asked if I can go find them.

Find two specific fans? Easier said than done in a 132,000-seater stadium with 21 gates and who even knows how many stands. Still, the angle the picture is taken from gives me an approximation of where they might be. I narrow it down to four stands, and the hunt begins!

Except each of these stands has at least a thousand people in it. In the third stand I venture into, I find a policeman who tells me the picture I was sent was taken right in front of him. I search for half an hour with no luck. The cop, perhaps sensing my sinking hopes, assures me they are certainly here. We exchange numbers. I tell him I'll be back every half hour.

Five minutes later: the phone buzzes. It's the policeman and he's delivered. But enough about my day now. Over to Uzair Muhammad, Aasif Syed, Karan Mansukhani and Mohit Nath.

These four men have come to Ahmedabad all the way from the USA. Uzair and Aasif, the ones wearing Pakistan jerseys, are originally from Karachi and have been in Houston for over 25 years. Mohit and Karan, of Indian origin, have been there for 15 and six years respectively.

The fact that they hold American passports helped Uzair and Aasif's visa application but it still wasn't straightforward. "It was a long wait for them, they waited 45 days to get the visa," Karan says. "I said I'll help you with the visa, I'll put my address, as I'm from Delhi. Uzair bhai was the last to get it, he had to go to the consulate a couple of times."

It's hard to confirm the number of Pakistan fans at the game, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was fewer than 10. Not unexpected, given how late tickets went on sale and how complicated it is for Pakistani citizens to get visas to travel to India. "I think it was a shock to a lot of people [at the stadium] because no one was expecting any Pakistani fans in Ahmedabad," Uzair says. "So it was a shock for them initially. But so many people came to us wanting to take selfies, to get pictures clicked."

While they came for the cricket, the trip to India was also a homecoming of sorts. Both Uzair and Aasif have ancestral roots in Uttar Pradesh. "Of course, the match was the primary motive to come to India, but I have ancestral roots in Shahjahanpur, couple of hundred miles east of Lucknow," Uzair says. "That was another reason to come here - visit our family, and see where my parents came from."

Aasif adds: "It's been great to trace the roots of my family. My grandfather's family, they are from UP, but they stayed in Delhi. We located them, we walked all the way from Jama Masjid to Bara Hindu Rao [in Kishan Ganj], through Sadar Bazaar and Chandni Chowk. It was a remarkable walk. I don't think I've ever seen that many people in one go in my life."

For Karan, bringing his friends to India has extra significance because back in Houston he's the only Indian in an otherwise all-Pakistan origin team. "I convinced them," he says. "I told them I'll take care of you, I'll be your bodyguard. I haven't left their side, apart from when Uzair went to visit his hometown."

Before the Pakistan batting collapsed in Ahmedabad, Uzair had hoped he would be part of history: witnessing Pakistan's first win in eight Men's ODI World Cup matches against India. I'd asked him how they would celebrate if that happened. "No, no, none of that, there's a back-up plan," came his reply as he pointed to another jersey he was carrying: a blue one with Virat 18 on the back. "That's when the jersey changes!"