All you can eat

One of Ahmedabad's best kept secrets - for outsiders at least - is its food. Unlike many Indian cuisines that are yet to make their way into restaurants, the Gujarati thali (platter) has adapted very well to the public space. Usually an all-vegetarian, all-you-can-eat spread with a distinct emphasis on the sweet taste, it comprises rice, puri/rotli (flat breads), dal/kadhi (lentils, often with yoghurt), shaak (vegetables), farsan (side dishes that complement the main meal), and dessert. Not to forget pickles, salads and buttermilk.

The local farsan deserves a whole book to itself: many of these are made out of various kinds of flour and steamed or deep-fried. While farsan is not seasonal, what is unique to this region in late winter is the undhiyu, a mixed-vegetable dish cooked with liberal lashings of coconut and buttermilk. The other speciality here in winter is lilva ni kachori (round dumplings made of flour and stuffed with pigeon peas).

Before you head out to sample a thali, a couple of things to keep in mind: it's part of Gujarati hospitality and warmth to keep replenishing your plate. It can be an overwhelming experience, so draw your own lines - but also feel free to ask for seconds or thirds (helpings are small). Also, most thali places do not do a la carte or pre-plated meals: They have a single menu for the day, with possible variations in a few courses, ensuring the food is always fresh. The recommended dishes are usually part of the thali.

Vishala Very well known for its Kathiawadi take - a regional variation - on the Gujarati thali, this is a destination restaurant that puts up cultural shows at dinner, and has an utensil museum that's worth an eyeful. Recommended: Dhokla (a steamed farsan), dal kadhi, khichdi

Rajwadu Somewhat similar to Vishala, if slightly more expensive, this is a great place to get a sense of rural Gujarat while enjoying the best of the local cuisine. It is about 15km away from the airport, and the semi-urban setting enhances the experience, which includes a puppet show. Recommended: Dhokla, muthiya, thepla, and the sweets: gulab jamun and jalebi.

Narmada About the only thali place in a five-star hotel, it provides a lavish variation of the standard Gujarati thali. Expect all the regular courses, cooked to perfection, with superlative service and a world-class ambience. Recommended: Gulab jamun, rabadi, gajar ka halwa.

Vintage Village (Dastan Estate, Sardar Patel Ring Road; Tel 91-079-32447111, 9714069911). Located some distance from the main city, it combines a restaurant with a personal museum of 200-odd vintage cars. The alfresco dining area has a rustic feel about it, while the covered pavilions offer protection from the elements. Recommended: The Farsan and the desserts.

Agashiye Set on the terrace of Ahmedabad's most famous heritage house, this is a superlative restaurant that focuses on the food - minus the frills of the likes of Vishala and Vintage Village. Here the thali is elevated to the level of fine dining in a setting you'll remember long after the meal is over. Recommended: Bataka nu shaak (a potato curry)

Swati Thali (Law Garden; Tel 91-079-26405900). One of the best reasonably priced fixed-thali places in Ahmedabad, the offering here starts with farsan, moves on to the vegetables served with small, round ghee-daubed rotlis, and follows it up with rice, dal and kadhi, before concluding with dessert. Recommended: Dal, rice, rotlis, theplas, dhokla and kadhi.

Adhaar (Navrangpura, Tel 91-079-26461021). For a very traditional-tasting Gujarati thali, this is the place to go. It refrains from experimenting with courses and sticks to what it knows best, making for a satisfying - if not marvellous - experience. Recommended: Malpua with rabdi

Gordhan Thal (SG Highway, Tel 91-079-26878905). A spacious dining hall with a busy buzz. This place sticks to the familiar dishes of the Gujarati thali with a fair degree of expertise. A value-for-money deal rather than a memorable one. Recommended: Kachori, samosa, dhokla, khichdi

Sasuji (CG Road, Tel 91-079-26405065/6). In the same league as Adhaar and Gordhan Thal, this dining hall specialises in serving vast quantities of food to large numbers of people simultaneously. Serviceable, not superlative. Recommended: Farsan and kadhi

Chandravilas (Gandhi Road and Ellisbridge, Tel 91- 079-22171745 / 26401688). One of the oldest restaurants in the city, its no-frills outlets serve a very economical thali. Recommended: Fafda-jalebi